Nem bilong mi Kate. Kuntry bilong mi Inglan

Bikpela man Herman na tisa Tok Pisin bilong mi Willie

(Village elder Herman and my Tok Pisin teacher Willie)

Tok Pisin is a marvellous language, the best part of in-country training by far. It makes sense and there's very little grammar. Even though most people I will be working with operate well in English local people don't so much and the more you can speak to local people the better your security network.

I am beginning to understand the paradox of PNG being the friendliest country I have ever visited and at the same time probably the most dangerous. Tempers can flare very quickly here and violence in general is an accepted method of conflict resolution. Domestic violence and familial violence is common place and part of the culture, however it is extremely rare for violence to be directed at foreigners. Most people you meet walking about will smile and greet you and very much appreciate any attempts at Tok Pisin. If you are friendly it will be reciprocated and there are many stories highlighting situations where foreigners have been protected by local people when violence has broken out. 

So where is the danger? There is very little, if any support from the state therefore you have no official back up. Although there is a police service they are under funded, unreliable and mistrusted; 999 will not work here. Each district it appears has its own rules and its own judicial system presided over by the village elders. (This of course is merely my understanding after 1 week in Madang, I am no expert!)

All in all it is essential to make friends and to make friends you need to speak Tok Pisin. I'm doing my best!

Nokin wari liklik samtain (Don't worry it'll be ok)

Early days and first impressions

Arriving at Port Moresby airport the waves of heat almost push you back on to the plane and the short walk to the terminal building is quite suffocating. I am prepared for questions at immigration, I have my completed landing card, my visa, my letter from VSO and my work placement address all at my fingertips but I need none of it. This has to have been the most welcoming experience to a country that I have ever enjoyed. Immigration officers that smile and greet you with 'Hello, how are you?' has to be a first. My passport was stamped with just a cursory glance at my visa and no questions.

My hand luggage was extensive as I made sure I had everything that was really important to me plus enough clothes for a few days and I was getting very hot and sweaty carrying it. I was so pleased I did though when my suitcase did not arrive. The Air Nuigini staff could not have been more helpful however and today I had a phone call to say that my suitcase has arrived in Port Moresby and will be forwarded on to Madang this afternoon - hoora!!! Double excitement because it also means I have the adventure of leaving the hotel complex on the hotel bus to go to the airport and pick it up. This will be only the second time out in the 2 days I've been here.

After the friendliness the next thing that hit me about the people on arrival was the different faces. In London I am now used to being able to identify roughly where African and Indian people may originate from by looking at their features and their way of dressing; here I have no clue. This is a whole new part of the world for me with so much to discover.

If you read this and have questions please ask, it will improve my writing!!!

Until the next time

Papa Kate

Countdown to Take Off

And now the end is near ... The final visit to Stamford Bridge has happened. The car is sold. The London goodbye tour from Putney to Dagenham is over. The last supper in the Ham is eaten. The celebratory family lunch devoured. The ultimate review of the suitcase must happen now and it will be below 20kg. Three days left in the UK before two years in a tropical paradise.
There is no more time for what if... or maybe I need... just time for some us time with my boy and then a new chapter begins.
Bring it on!